Anchorages · 2 Jul 2027 · 5 min read
Kleftiko before nine
The pirate caves on the southwest corner of Milos, before the day boats arrive. Go early, go by tender, go quietly.
Kleftiko is only reachable from the sea, which is why pirates liked it and why it is crowded by eleven. We anchor overnight in Agia Kyriaki on the south coast and leave at first light, so the boat is in the arches by eight.
“By eight the arches are ours. By eleven they belong to everyone.”
The rock is white volcanic tuff, carved into tunnels and stacks. The water under it shifts between green and the blue of a gas flame. Swim through the big arch on the eastern side, then let the tender drift into the cave behind it. Bring a mask; the wall goes down twenty metres and you can see all of it.
By half past ten the first excursion boats come round the headland from Adamas with music on. That is our signal to have breakfast and head for Kimolos.
